Getting More From Your Lipless Lures

One of the benefits of fishing lipless crankbaits is that you really don't need special skills to catch bass on them. But if you do put extra thought and effort into how you present a lipless crankbait, your success will be even better.

I fish crankbaits on various line sizes, preferring monofilament over low-stretch lines, and use line size to control the running depth. I also cast these baits on a 7-foot fiberglass or graphite composite rod because it is more forgiving and allows the fish to eat the bait.

However, the proper tackle is only the first step. How you present it to the bass can make a difference in whether you catch two fish or 10. The basic chunk-and-wind tactic that most anglers employ with lipless lures will catch fish most of the time. But there are days and situations when a more refined approach will produce a lot better.

For example, bass aren't in the mood to chase or rise to hit a fast mover in cold water. When you are fishing around other anglers who are using lipless lures with traditional fast-winding techniques, a different presentation can be more deadly. As good as lipless lures can be, bass may become conditioned to that loud, vibrating sound.

The biggest mistake many people make is not staying in tune with what the bait is doing and not doing much to trigger reactionary strikes. They figure the noise and vibration are enough to attract strikes.

Banging the cover, which is a tactic I use with my regular crankbaits, is equally important with a lipless model. If the water is cold, I will slow-roll a Strike King Diamond Shad over the bottom with just enough speed to keep it vibrating. The natural action of it clipping rocks, grass and debris triggers strikes I might not get by burning it just beneath the surface. Cold water will cause shad to die off, and that is what I want to mimic — baitfish that are dying or struggling to swim.

That doesn't mean anglers should rip on the rod or jerk the bait 3 feet off the bottom when they feel it touch something. Simply allow the rod to load up and pull it free with the tip so it flutters on a semi-tight line — enough that you can still feel the tension. The more subtle manner of triggering reactionary strikes is required when bass are sluggish.

Another technique I like is pumping the lure in a yo-yo fashion when bass are on deeper flats. Cast it out and allow the bait to hit bottom. With the rod tip pointed toward the water, gently sweep the rod sideways and let the bait flutter back. Again, maintain contact with the lure. Otherwise, you may miss strikes you won't feel if the line is slack.

Of course, the cover will dictate how close you can fish near bottom. If there's grass, I want the bait ticking the tops of the weeds and fluttering.

Again, line size will help you control the fall of the bait and keep it near the bottom without snagging in the cover. The heavier the line, the slower the bait will fall.

Also, experiment with lure speed. In clear water, you must increase speed to disguise the lure. In stained or muddy water, a slower retrieve is important because it allows the bass to find the bait when its vision is impaired by water clarity.

If you give these presentations a chance, you'll discover the lipless lure is a versatile tool that catches bass in cold water when other baits strike out.