Try Lipless Crankbaits For More Cold-Water Action

I've always known that lipless crankbaits were deadly for triggering reactionary strikes, but it wasn't until recently that I discovered what a powerful tool they can be in cold water.

Many of the pro tour events are held in early spring and in water below 65 degrees, so I have to find ways to catch cold-water bass. Remarkably, I've seen days when bass hit lipless lures when they wouldn't open their mouths for jigs or worms. I opt for lipless lures the moment bass begin moving onto flats in water 10 feet deep or less. They're best suited for water less than 6 feet deep, but can be just as deadly when fished over deeper flats, especially in early spring.

Probably the most valuable lesson I've learned is that you don't pick up just any rod or lipless lure and start hurling it. While I've caught fish doing that, I've become more successful with a sophisticated approach.

You need the total package — line, rod/reel and hooks — to get the most from these baits.
Keep in mind that the lipless lure is a generic term. Rat-L-Traps and Cordell Spots have been around the longest. The lure consists of a hard-plastic baitfish-shaped body filled with BBs that create a loud, rattling sound as it is pulled through the water. Today, nearly all hard-bait companies make them, and nearly all catch fish.

However, not all lures perform the same. For example, the 1/2-ounce Strike King Diamond Shad runs a little deeper than a 1/2-ounce Rat-L-Trap. I've found that extra running depth allows me to increase my line size, which is important when fishing heavy cover and big fish, and still fish the proper speed at the appropriate depth. I prefer the 1/2-ounce size because I can work it at a medium speed and still keep it in contact with the bottom or cover.

Fiberglass or composite rods (7-footers) are best because they are more forgiving and let the fish eat the bait. Graphite rods are more sensitive and have faster actions, but those characteristics cause hooks to rip from a bass's mouth. I also fish the lures on baitcast reels with a 5-to-1 gear ratio because it makes me slow down the retrieve in colder water.

Line is critical. Although I use fluorocarbon with some of my cranking techniques, I prefer monofilament for lipless lures. With highly sensitive, low-stretch fluorocarbon, you can move the bait too fast on the hookset. The bass then gets hooked in the outer mouth where it can shake free.

Actually, instead of setting the hook with lipless lures, I've trained myself to reel faster until the rod loads up completely. This has improved my fish-landing ratio.

When the lipless-lure bite is on, I'll rig several rods with different line sizes so I can vary the running depth. If I move shallower, I'll go to heavier line to control the sink rate. If I move deeper, I'll decrease the size to get the bait down faster.

The size and style of treble hooks you use are two other things to consider. Since I've switched to Mustad's Triple Grip hooks and changed my hook-setting, I've lost fewer fish. However, I also switch to larger hooks. Most 1/2-ounce baits come with No. 4 and No. 6 trebles, but if the cover isn't too heavy, I replace them with No. 2 short-shank Triple Grips. If you're working thick cover, you may have to stay with No. 4s and No. 6s because they are less apt to snag.

Of course, all of these adjustments are not necessary to catch fish on lipless lures. But if you want to increase your success and land more fish, I suggest you refine your tactics.