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Dragging Is Deadly, Especially
In Super-Clear Water
Story and Photos By Don Wirth
Each year, weekend anglers try to execute complicated
lure presentations favored by bass pros and guides, such as skipping,
pitching and shaking. These presentation methods usually demand
skillful rod manipulation on the angler's part and invariably
require considerable practice to perfect.
However, if you're chasing after finicky smallmouth
bass in clear lakes, there's a super-simple presentation
that can be very productive. It's called dragging, and it
may forever change the way you fish for bronzebacks on big bodies
of water.
Great Lakes Tactics
According to veteran Michigan smallmouth expert and guide Dick
Mericle, dragging is a presentation method that was born on the
Great Lakes.
"It basically involves wind-drifting across
offshore structures while tight-lining a jig-type lure, especially
a tube bait, so it drags along the bottom mimicking an alarmed
crayfish or darting goby," he says. "Smallmouth anglers
on Lake Erie and Lake Michigan were the first to perfect it, and
it gradually caught on in inland waters."
Mericle uses this presentation on Lake Michigan's
Grand Traverse Bay as well as Michigan's biggest inland
lakes including Torch, Elk and Charlevoix. All of these huge bodies
of water are spectacularly clear and deep with slick sand bottoms
interspersed with scattered, scrubby patches of short grass and
isolated rockpiles. The primary smallmouth structures include
massive flats, steep drop-offs and offshore humps. Bottom-hugging
forage species such as crayfish and gobies make up a large part
of the smallmouth's diet in these giant bodies of water.
Mericle says dragging was born out of frustration
with trying to cast the small, lightweight lures that bronzebacks
favor, especially tube jigs, in high winds.
"These are huge, wide-open bodies of water,
and sometimes the wind gets so bad that a tube will practically
blow back in your face when you cast it," Mericle insists.
"Plus, you're usually bucking big waves, which creates
added drag on your line and makes it hard to feel light bites."
Dragging overcomes these problems by circumventing
casting. It keeps your lure in the strike zone nearly 100 percent
of the time, lets the wind work for you instead of against you
and is the most natural presentation you can use in super-clear
lakes.
Mericle's Method
Dragging works best from post-spawn through fall in Mericle's
neck of the woods.
"By mid-July, Great Lakes smallmouth bass
have usually left their shallow spawning grounds for deep water,"
he says. "Here, they spend much of their time suspending
offshore. It's common for them to hang out 30 to 40 feet
deep in 70 feet of water. But they'll move shallower to
feed, favoring areas on or close to a drop-off that offers a quick
escape route into the depths."
When these fish are prowling the bottom for a meal,
Mericle has found that dragging is the perfect presentation.
"I catch most of my quality fish — smallmouth
from 3 to 7 pounds — dragging tubes in 12 to 14 feet of
water during summer and fall," he says. "But we've
dragged them up as deep as 36 feet and as shallow as 10. That's
one of the major advantages of dragging — it's an
awesome search tactic. By drifting a drop-off, for example, two
anglers in the same boat can probe dramatically different depths
at the same time until they locate the precise zone the smallmouth
are using."
The Right Gear
A seaworthy boat with a powerful trolling motor, GPS, dependable
graph and plenty of horsepower is highly recommended for bass
fishing on the Great Lakes. Mericle fishes from a 20-foot Triton
bass boat equipped with a Motor Guide trolling motor, Lowrance
GPS on the console and Lowrance graph at the bow. His 225-horsepower
Mercury outboard is insurance that he'll be able to make
it back to shore quickly and safely should a storm approach.
"This is not your typical shoreline bass fishing,"
he emphasizes. "You're often far offshore, and it
can get extremely rough in a hurry. Here, it pays to monitor weather
conditions constantly with a weather radio."
Mericle drags tube baits exclusively. His favorite
is Schubert's 3½-inch tube in natural forage colors.
"My most productive color has been sand with
blue, red or green flakes," he says. "This closely
matches the color of the crayfish in my area lakes. White is also
good. This imitates alewives and molting crayfish. Once smallmouth
have left their beds, I don't have much luck dragging colors
that work well during spawning season, such as lime green and
chartreuse."
How Mericle rigs his tubes for dragging depends
on how smooth or rough the bottom is.
"If there's a lot of rock rubble and patchy grass,
I'll go with a Texas-rigged tube," he says. "As
it drags along the bottom, the sinker will momentarily hang up,
then release when your line tightens, making a clicking noise
like a crayfish. But if the bottom is mainly smooth sand, I'll
use a jighead and leave the hook exposed."
Mericle molds his own jigheads around a 4/0 hook
with a 60-degree bend. This style helps keep the tube locked to
the bottom better when dragging.
"When Texas-rigging, I use a 3/0 Gamakatsu
extra-wide-gap worm hook," he adds. "Avoid light-wire
hooks when dragging for smallies. This is a big-fish method, and
a lunker smallmouth can pull hard enough to straighten a light
hook."
The amount of jighead or sinker weight you use will
vary according to depth and wind velocity.
"When dragging water 12 to 15 feet deep under
light to moderate winds, I'll normally use a 3/16-ounce
sinker or head," Mericle says. "For 15 to 20 feet,
I'll switch to a 1/4-ounce head. For anything deeper, I'll
choose a 3/8-ounce head. If you're not feeling your lure
drag bottom enough, switch to a heavier sinker or head. If you're
constantly hanging up in rocks or weeds, go lighter."
Mericle prefers spinning tackle for dragging, specifically
7-foot G. Loomis rods for their light weight and extreme sensitivity.
His favorites aren't overly stiff and offer plenty of shock
absorption in the tip section. He pairs these sticks with Shimano
reels spooled with 8-pound fluorocarbon line, which he recommends
for its sensitivity and sinking qualities.
"Fluorocarbon gets your lure down and keeps it there, and
when you get a bite, you'll feel it, even in rough seas
with a lot of line out," Mericle says.
Setting Up A Drift
Mericle demonstrated the dragging technique one September morning
on sprawling, windswept Grand Traverse Bay. Here, the primary
drop-off out from shore was clearly visible to the naked eye and
ran for miles out into Lake Michigan proper.
The guide positioned his boat parallel to the drop
so the inside lure would be dragging bottom in 14 feet of water
and the outside lure in 18 feet. Long casts were made directly
behind the boat. The rods were held steady at a 45-degree angle,
allowing the tubes to drag along the bottom as the boat drifted
parallel to the drop. He used his trolling motor sparingly, making
minor corrections to the drift as needed to stay in the targeted
depth zone.
After drifting 1/4 mile, Mericle announced, "I've
got one!" and began reeling quickly until his rod doubled
over. Instantly, a huge smallmouth leaped skyward, then bolted
for deep water. Eventually, the 5-pound bass was netted.
"It's important not to rear back and
set the hook hard when dragging because you may break your line,"
he advised. "Instead, just wind down tight on the fish.
Once it feels resistance, it'll usually bolt for deep water
and set the hook itself."
After releasing the bass, Mericle motored back to
the starting point. On the next drift, two 3-pound smallies were
bagged, and a much bigger fish jumped and threw a tube.
"In summer and fall, it's common to
drift long distances without getting a bite, then you'll
run into a big school of smallies and suddenly everyone in the
boat has a good fish on at the same time," Mericle said.
"By making multiple drifts across the same structure at
various depths, you may pick up several big ones. My clients and
I have dragged up smallies over 7 pounds. This is the perfect
big-water technique for the inexperienced bass angler and for
kids. Once the lure has been cast out, all they have to do is
hang onto the rod until a fish loads on."
One of the best things about dragging smallies
is being able to watch your hooked bass fight you all the way
to the boat in that gin-clear water. They'll jump, dive
and sulk in the depths, spit up a gutful of crayfish parts and
then take to the air again. So give it a try on your home smallmouth
waters this summer.
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